Stave churches are Norway’s wooden time capsules, steep-roofed and dragon-headed, holding a thousand years of weather, worship, and woodcraft. Built mostly between the 1100s and 1300s, they are masterpieces of medieval carpentry, held together by ingenuity rather than nails. If you want a direct line to old Norway, this is where you feel it in your bones.
In short, the best stave churches to visit for architecture, history, and ease of travel are Urnes, Borgund, Heddal, Lom, Ringebu, Kaupanger, Hopperstad, and Gol (Norsk Folkemuseum, Oslo). These eight give you a rich spread: from UNESCO-listed elegance to mountain-valley giants, from richly carved portals to lived-in parish churches that still call locals to service.
Let’s take a deeper dive into the world of stave churches in Norway.
Urnes Stave Church, Lustrafjord
If you visit only one, make it Urnes. Perched above the Lustrafjord with fruit orchards below, Urnes is the oldest and most artistically important stave church in Norway, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Built around 1130, it fuses Viking-era ornament with Romanesque influences. The famous north portal displays sinuous animal interlace known as the Urnes style, evidence of a society moving from Norse beliefs to Christianity while still carving like shipbuilders.
What I love: the approach. You take a small ferry from Solvorn, then walk up through a hamlet that hasn’t changed much in generations. Inside, light filters through tar-blackened timbers. If you listen, you can almost hear the fjord. Book a guided tour in season to unlock the iconography and woodcraft details that are easy to miss.
Borgund Stave Church, Lærdal
Borgund is the poster child. Built around 1180, it looks like a wooden cathedral crossed with a Viking ship, complete with tiered roofs, dragon heads, and a ring of outside galleries. The structure is so striking that 19th century architects used it as a template for new “Dragon Style” buildings across Norway.
Practical tip: There is an excellent visitor center with exhibits and a replica you can walk into, which helps you understand the construction without crowding the original. Arrive early or late in the day in summer to avoid bus tours, and save time to stroll the old King’s Road nearby for a sense of how pilgrims once approached.
Heddal Stave Church, Notodden
Heddal is the largest stave church in Norway, a three-towered giant rising from Telemark farmland. It is still an active parish church, which means seasonal services, weddings, and the warm lived-in feel that museum churches sometimes lack. Expect rope-thick corner staves and a roomier interior than most, with later-period murals peeking through.
Local tip: Combine Heddal with a stop at nearby traditional farm museums or a Telemark canal cruise if you’re on a summer road trip. Dress modestly and step quietly if you arrive during a service. The caretakers are welcoming, but they appreciate respectful visitors.
Lom Stave Church, Gudbrandsdalen
On the E6 through the Gudbrandsdalen valley, Lom is one of the easiest stave churches to slot into a longer itinerary between Oslo and the fjords. The church dates largely from the 12th century, but grew with later extensions. You’ll notice steep shingles, a stout central spire, and portals with intricate carvings. Inside, look for the painted ceiling and medieval artifacts that hint at the church’s role as a valley hub.
Why it’s memorable: the setting. The river roars below, the bakery in Lom is beloved by hikers heading to Jotunheimen, and the village has a proud food culture. Pair your visit with a stop for cinnamon buns and mountain views, which is about as Norwegian as a day gets.
Ringebu Stave Church, Gudbrandsdalen
A short drive north of Lillehammer, Ringebu blends ancient structure and 17th century color. The distinctive red-painted tower was added later, lending it a cheerful look against green hills. The core, though, remains medieval. You’ll find runic graffiti, carved posts, and a churchyard that tells the story of a community anchored here for centuries.
Travel note: Ringebu is perfect if you’re exploring the Rondane or Peer Gynt Road scenic routes. Late afternoon light makes the tarred walls glow, a reward for travelers who don’t rush.
Kaupanger Stave Church, Sogndal
Overlooking the Sognefjord, Kaupanger is tall, elegant, and unusually forest-like inside due to its many slender staves. It feels airy compared to the compact interiors you may expect. The church has been in continuous use for 900 years, which you sense in the mixture of medieval structure and later fixtures.
Insider angle: The fjord-side location means you can fold Kaupanger into a classic Sognefjord loop with ferries and glacier viewpoints. Check seasonal ferry times before you plan the day, since fjord logistics shape travel here.
Hopperstad Stave Church, Vik i Sogn
Hopperstad sits on a quiet hillside above the village of Vik. The church is smaller than Borgund but carries similar drama with triple roofs and carved dragons. The reconstructed elements, based on 19th century documentation, make Hopperstad a lesson in how Norwegians fought to save these buildings when many were being torn down or altered.
Why go: It is rarely crowded, and the caretaker tours are personal. Combine with a drive over the Vikafjell mountain road or a taste of gamalost cheese, a local specialty with a serious personality. Bring a light jacket even in summer; coastal wind sneaks up the hill.
Gol Stave Church at the Norsk Folkemuseum, Oslo
The original stave church from Gol was moved to Oslo in the late 1800s and now stands within the open-air Norsk Folkemuseum on Bygdøy. Purists will note it is not in its original landscape, but for many visitors this is the most accessible way to see a historically important stave church without leaving the capital. The museum context helps too, with folk buildings from across the country arranged like a time-travel village.
How to use it well: Visit in the morning, then continue to the Viking Ship Museum’s new facilities or the Fram Museum nearby. Buy a combined ticket or plan your museum day to make the most of Bygdøy. If you also plan to see the modern replica in Gol, you’ll appreciate the contrast.
How to Choose Which Stave Churches to Visit
If you are based in Oslo and have one day, go to Gol at the Norsk Folkemuseum. With two or three days by car, Borgund, Hopperstad, and Kaupanger make a tight Sognefjord circuit. If Telemark is on your route, Heddal is essential. Heading north through the valleys, pair Lom and Ringebu. For a once-in-a-lifetime, make room for Urnes, even if it means a small detour and a ferry ride.
Summer is the simplest season for visiting, with regular opening hours and guided tours. In spring and autumn, hours shrink but you gain calm and moody light. In winter, many churches are closed or open by appointment only. If you are traveling off season, always check opening times in advance and consider calling the local parish or tourist office.
What To Look For When You’re Inside
Give your eyes time to adjust. The interiors are dark by design, lined with tarred wood that has absorbed centuries of smoke. You’ll notice:
- Portals and capitals with animal-and-vine carvings, echoes of Viking ornament translated into Christian symbolism.
- Roof structure like an upside-down ship, with trusses and braces that make sense if you’ve ever studied a Norwegian boathouse.
- Runes and pilgrim marks scratched into timbers, sometimes names, sometimes blessings.
- Layered history, where medieval frames carry 1600s pulpits or 1700s paintings. These churches were never frozen in time; they evolved with their communities.
Photography is usually allowed outside, and often allowed inside without flash. Ask first and avoid tripods during services. If a rope blocks an area, it is there to protect fragile floors and carvings.
Practical Tips From A Local
- Respect the tar. Freshly tarred walls can stain clothes. Lean gently or not at all.
- Shoes and silence. These are places of worship. Keep voices low, remove hats, and if a service begins, step back and wait or join quietly.
- Weatherproof your day. Even in July, mountain valleys can be chilly. Bring a light jacket and pack a small umbrella.
- Pair culture with nature. Stave churches sit in landscapes worth lingering in. Add a short hike, a ferry crossing, or a farm café. The memory becomes larger than the building.
- Support the caretakers. Entrance fees go toward conservation. Buy the ticket, take the guided tour, and say thank you. It matters.
A Sample 3-Day Stave Church Itinerary From Oslo
Day 1: Oslo to Notodden for Heddal, continue to Rjukan or Bø for the night.
Day 2: Drive to Lærdal for Borgund, then over to Sogndal for Kaupanger. Sleep in Sogndal or Balestrand.
Day 3: Morning ferry to Solvorn and onward to Urnes, then loop to Vik for Hopperstad. Return south via the Aurlandsfjellet scenic route if open. If you need a quick fix back in Oslo later, cap everything with Gol at the Norsk Folkemuseum on a quieter weekday.
You will come away with the smell of pine tar in your clothes, a new respect for medieval engineering, and the sense that Norway’s oldest timber still holds a modern heartbeat.