Christmas in Norway is a season of candlelight and snow, family dinners and outdoor adventures, and old traditions that still feel very much alive. With long nights and short days, Norwegians lean into warmth and togetherness. That means star lamps glowing in windows, the smell of gingerbread and cloves in the kitchen, and a steady rhythm of community events all through December.
If you are wondering how Christmas in Norway works, the short version is this. The big celebration happens on December 24, when families gather for dinner, exchange presents, and often welcome the Julenisse at the door. December 25 is a quiet day for rest, and the days between December 26 and New Year’s Eve are called romjul, a cozy stretch for skiing, visiting friends, and finishing leftovers. Expect traditional dishes like ribbe (crisp pork belly) or pinnekjøtt (salted and dried lamb ribs), cookies baked in huge batches, and mugs of hot gløgg.
Curious about Norwegian Christmas traditions, what to eat, how shops and transport work, and where to find the holiday atmosphere? Let’s take a deeper dive into Christmas in Norway.
The Advent Build Up
Norwegian Christmas begins with Advent, the four Sundays before Christmas Eve. Families place an Advent candle holder with four candles on the table and light one each Sunday. Many homes hang a paper star lamp in the window for a soft, golden glow. Children follow a julekalender, a daily Advent calendar with chocolates or small gifts, and you will even find TV Advent calendars that air a short festive episode every evening.
December weekends fill up fast with julebord, the classic Norwegian pre-Christmas gatherings for colleagues and friends. Some restaurants serve special holiday buffets, and many towns host tree lightings or small concerts. You will also notice favorite seasonal drinks appearing in cafés. Try a steaming cup of gløgg (mulled wine or nonalcoholic spiced juice) with almonds and raisins. It pairs well with pepperkaker (thin gingerbread cookies).
If you like joining local customs, mark December 13 for St. Lucia. Schoolchildren in white outfits carry candles and serve saffron buns called lussekatter. It is simple and beautiful, and many churches and schools welcome visitors to public performances.
Key Dates And What Actually Happens
December 23, Lille julaften (Little Christmas Eve): Households finish decorating. Many families put the tree up now and hang Norwegian flags and straw ornaments. A common supper is rice porridge called risgrøt, served with cinnamon sugar and a pat of butter. There might be one almond hidden in the pot. Whoever finds it often wins a small marzipan pig later that evening.
December 24, Julaften (Christmas Eve): This is the heart of Christmas in Norway. Shops close early. Many visit a church service during the day, then come home to a long dinner. The two big dishes are ribbe in the east and pinnekjøtt in the west and north, though you will also see roasted turkey or lutefisk in some homes. Sides include red cabbage, sauerkraut, boiled potatoes, and caramelized brown gravy. Dessert might be riskrem (rice pudding folded with whipped cream) with a bright red berry sauce, or multekrem with cloudberries if you are lucky.
When dinner ends, it is time for presents. In many homes the Julenisse shows up, often a relative in a red hat with a sack. Children ask, “Are there any nice children here?” and the gift exchange begins. There is also a tradition of walking around the Christmas tree hand in hand while singing carols. It is homespun and charming, and visitors are always included.
December 25, Første juledag (First Day of Christmas): This is a quiet day for family. Shops are closed and streets can feel very still. People read books they received the night before, take a walk in the snow, or watch classic Norwegian holiday TV.
December 26, Andre juledag (Second Day of Christmas): Friends start to meet up again. Some go skiing or visit extended family. Shops may have limited hours, but the country is slowly waking up.
Romjul (December 27 to 30): Norwegians savor this in-between time. There are board games, leftovers, and outdoor time. Ski resorts are lively. Cities organize concerts and exhibitions. It is a great week for visitors, since hotels and restaurants are open yet the pace is relaxed.
December 31, Nyttårsaften (New Year’s Eve): Families eat a festive dinner and watch fireworks at midnight. Public fireworks are common in larger towns. Warm layers and a good spot by the water or a hilltop make the show memorable.
The Flavors Of A Norwegian Christmas
If you want to experience Christmas in Norway through food, start with the classics.
Ribbe: Crisp-skinned pork belly roasted until the crackling pops. Served with sauerkraut or red cabbage, potatoes, and gravy. If you see juleribbe on a menu, order it.
Pinnekjøtt: Salted and dried lamb ribs steamed over birch sticks. The meat is rich and deeply savory, often paired with mashed rutabaga called kålrotstappe. This is a beloved dish on the west coast and in the north.
Lutefisk: Dried cod that has been rehydrated and cooked to a delicate texture, served with bacon, peas, and flatbread. It divides opinion, yet it is an important part of Norwegian holiday tables and restaurant menus throughout December.
Fish on Christmas Eve: In some coastal families, baked cod is the Christmas Eve dinner. It is a lighter, equally traditional alternative to meat.
Desserts: Riskrem with red sauce is everywhere and never wrong. Multekrem mixes whipped cream with cloudberries, a wild Arctic berry that tastes like honey and apricot. Cookie tins are stacked high with the syv slag, the “seven sorts” of Christmas cookies. You might encounter krumkaker, serinakaker, goro, smultringer, and more.
Drinks: Gløgg is the winter standby. Adults often enjoy a measure of aquavit with Christmas dinner. Nonalcoholic julebrus (a seasonal soda) is a nostalgic favorite for many.
Christmas For Children
Norwegian Christmas is designed with children in mind. The Julenisse visits on Christmas Eve. Advent calendars keep spirits high all month. Schools and kindergartens host nisser days where kids wear red caps and bring gingerbread in their lunchboxes. Public libraries stock Christmas picture books and comics called julehefter, and families often make a special trip to pick them up.
You may also notice a small bowl of porridge set out on the porch on Little Christmas Eve. That offering is for the farm nisse, a helpful house spirit from folklore. It is a sweet habit that many families keep just for fun.
Markets, Music, And Winter Atmosphere
Most Norwegian cities and many towns open small Christmas markets in late November and early December. Expect craft stalls, local food, and a Ferris wheel or skating rink in larger places. Bergen builds a gingerbread city that fills an exhibition hall and smells amazing. Oslo’s city center glitters with lights, and music students perform carols in churches large and small. Tromsø, Trondheim, and Stavanger all arrange concerts that make a perfect end to a cold afternoon.
If you enjoy the outdoors, December can be wonderful. Cross-country ski tracks begin to open in the forests around many cities if the snow cooperates. In northern Norway, the polar night creates a deep blue daylight that photographers love. Clear nights may bring northern lights. In the south, short days are offset by lively streets and bright shop windows.
Shopping Hours, Closures, And What Visitors Should Expect
A few practical points will make your Christmas in Norway smoother.
Shops close early on December 24 and stay closed on December 25. December 26 has limited opening hours. Grocery stores extend hours in the week before Christmas, then wind down quickly on the 24th. Plan ahead for ingredients and gifts.
Alcohol sales are restricted. Wine and spirits are sold at the state-run Vinmonopolet, which has reduced hours in late December and is closed on Sundays and holidays. Grocery stores sell beer but stop sales in the evening. Buying a bottle for Christmas dinner requires a little planning.
Public transport runs on holiday schedules. On December 24 and 25 you will see fewer departures. Airport trains and regional services still run, but there may be gaps. Taxis are available although demand spikes on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve.
Restaurants fill up. If you want a Christmas menu like ribbe or pinnekjøtt, reserve early. Many places close entirely on December 24 and 25. Hotel restaurants are a reliable option if you do not have a home kitchen.
Church services are welcoming. Even if you are not religious, attending a late afternoon service on Christmas Eve is a meaningful way to feel the local rhythm. Services often include carols and a short homily. Check parish websites for English-friendly options in larger cities.
How To Join In Respectfully
Norwegians value modesty and togetherness at Christmas. Gifts are typically thoughtful rather than extravagant, and presents are opened one by one with attention to the giver. If you are invited to a home, a small host gift like chocolates or flowers is perfect. Indoor shoes or socks are handy since many homes are shoe free. If you have dietary needs, mention them well before Christmas Eve. Hosts will try to accommodate you, but holiday shopping happens early.
Learning a few words adds a lot. “God jul” means Merry Christmas. “Tusen takk” is a heartfelt thank you. When passing dishes at the table, take a little of everything and go back for seconds if you love a particular item. The point is not formality. It is being present and relaxed.
Packing And Weather Tips
December in Norway is cold, and the darkness is part of the magic. Bring layers and think in systems. A wool base layer keeps you warm on city walks and in church pews. A windproof outer shell helps on the coast. Good boots with tread are safer on icy sidewalks. A small headlamp can be useful for evening strolls, especially in smaller towns where street lighting is softer. Indoors, houses and restaurants are warm. Norwegians dress nicely for Christmas Eve dinner, often with something red or a traditional sweater, and then change back into cozy clothes for romjul.
For photographers, the blue hour lasts and lasts. Tripods help. If you are hoping for northern lights, head north of the Arctic Circle or to dark coastlines when the sky is clear. Check the aurora forecast and be flexible. Even without a display, starry skies over snow are unforgettable.
Where To Find Christmas Spirit As A Visitor
If your time is short, cities make it easy. In Oslo, stroll the main boulevard for lights and taste gløgg at the seasonal stalls. In Bergen, look for the gingerbread city and ride the funicular for a nighttime view. Trondheim’s cathedral is magnificent for choral concerts, and Tromsø’s Arctic Cathedral hosts candlelit performances that feel tailor made for winter nights. In small towns, the atmosphere is gentler but no less rich. Follow the scent of waffles to a community market and you will find Christmas in fifteen minutes.
Making The Most Of Romjul
The in-between days are a gift. Try a cross-country ski lesson, go ice skating, or take a day trip by train along a fjord line. Visit a museum in the morning, then linger over a long café lunch. Many Norwegians use romjul to see friends they missed earlier in December. You can do the same. Book a sauna by the sea, jump in for a quick dip if you dare, and let the cold and heat reset your mood for the new year.
Christmas in Norway is not a show that you watch. It is a set of small, steady rituals that anyone can join. Light a candle, learn a carol, try a spoonful of rice pudding, and wish the people around you a warm “God jul.” That is the real tradition, and it is why so many remember their Norwegian Christmas long after the tree comes down.