May 17th, or Syttende Mai, is the day Norwegians fill the streets with flags, brass bands, and a very specific combination of hot dogs and ice cream. We celebrate the signing of our constitution in 1814 and, just as important, a shared idea of community. It is festive and formal, loud and tender, and it centers children more than any other national day I know.
If you are wondering what actually happens on May 17th, the short answer is this. It is a public holiday with morning salutes, children’s parades, speeches, and schoolyard games, followed by family meals and citywide “citizens’ parades.” In Oslo the children march up Karl Johans gate to the Royal Palace while the royal family waves from the balcony. Across the country you will see national costumes, suits and dresses, and a sea of small flags. You can join in simply by showing up, dressing neatly, and saying Gratulerer med dagen, which means “congratulations on the day.”
Let’s take a deeper dive into the world of May 17th in Norway.
What May 17th Actually Celebrates
May 17th marks the signing of the Norwegian Constitution at Eidsvoll in 1814. Norway had been in a long union with Denmark, then entered a union with Sweden after 1814, and finally became fully independent in 1905. The day is not a military parade or a show of force. It is a civic celebration of rights, democracy, and the people who carry it forward. That is why the focus is on children and schools rather than soldiers and tanks.
The Rhythm of the Day
While every town has its traditions, the flow is surprisingly consistent.
Early morning often starts with a cannon salute or church bells. Brass bands might play reveille outside schools and nursing homes, a gentle wake up that feels very Norwegian. By mid morning, the barnetog begins, the children’s parade led by school banners and marching bands. In Oslo this parade climbs the city’s spine from the university to the Royal Palace, and it takes hours, because there are thousands of kids.
Around midday, families peel off to schoolyards for speeches, choir performances, raffles, and classic games like sack races. There are tables of waffles, cakes, and coffee. You will hear the national anthem Ja, vi elsker and the beloved song Norge i rødt, hvitt og blått. Afternoon brings the borgertog, the citizens’ parade where adult organizations, cultural groups, and sports clubs march. In some towns there is a separate russetog for the graduating seniors known as russ. Evening can be a quiet family dinner or a street party, depending on the city, and some places set off fireworks if the sun cooperates.
How Oslo, Bergen, and Other Cities Differ
In Oslo, the children’s parade is the main act. Schools from all over the city march to the Royal Palace, and it is worth staking out a spot early if you want a view of the balcony. I like to stand slightly uphill on Karl Johans gate so I can see both the kids and the palace.
Bergen’s signature is the buekorps, youth brigades with drums and wooden rifles, a tradition that gives the day a dramatic rhythm. In Stavanger and Trondheim, the citizens’ parades highlight the diversity of local clubs and professions. Small towns feel intimate, and you can greet the same people several times as the parade loops past the same corner. The spirit is the same everywhere, but the flavor changes with the place.
What To Wear, For Real
You will see many people wearing the bunad, Norway’s regional folk costume with intricate embroidery and silver jewelry known as sølv. If you own a bunad, you know exactly how to care for it, and you will likely be fussing with your cuff links and stockings the night before. If you do not own one, that is completely fine. A neat suit, a dress, or smart separates are perfect. A red, white, and blue ribbon pinned to your lapel is a nice touch. Wear shoes you can stand and walk in for hours, and bring a light coat. May weather in Norway can be crisp, and a sudden shower is not unusual.
If you come from abroad and have a national dress of your own, wearing it is welcomed. It fits the day’s spirit that all cultures can show up respectfully.
Food Traditions You Will Actually Encounter
The running joke is that children are allowed unlimited ice cream and hot dogs on May 17th. It is not a formal rule, but it captures the mood. You will see pølse i lompe, a hot dog wrapped in soft potato flatbread, and more cones and popsicles than on any other day. Adults often start with a home champagne breakfast, with scrambled eggs, smoked salmon, and fresh bread. Later you might see bløtkake, a layered sponge cake with whipped cream and berries, and kransekake, an almond ring tower that looks like a celebration even before you slice it. Many schools sell waffles and coffee to raise funds for band uniforms and class trips. Bring small coins or a card, since these sales are part of the fun and support the community.
Etiquette That Helps You Blend In
There are a few unwritten rules that make the day feel smooth.
Flags: Carry a handheld Norwegian flag proudly, but do not wear the flag as clothing or drag it. If you plan to bring a larger flag, check local guidelines. In the crowds, the small fabric flag on a wooden stick is the practical choice.
Photos: Photograph the parade and the atmosphere freely, but be thoughtful about close ups of children who are not yours. Step to the side before you stop to take pictures.
Alcohol: Public drinking laws vary and enforcement can be strict in city centers. Enjoy your champagne breakfast at home or a licensed venue, then switch to coffee and cake while you are out among school events.
Phrases: The one you need is Gratulerer med dagen. Use it with everyone you meet. It is friendly and always appropriate.
The Role of the Russ
The russ are the students finishing upper secondary school. Their celebration runs for weeks in May and can look wild in the evenings. On the 17th, though, they take part in the formal parades and festivities with more restraint. You will still notice the red or blue overalls and the decorated buses in larger cities, which add color and noise to the day.
Planning Your Day As a Visitor
If you want to see the big Oslo parade, arrive early. Streets close, and public transport is crowded but frequent. Pick a meeting spot if you are with friends, since mobile networks can get congested in peak hours. After watching the parade near the Royal Palace or along Karl Johans gate, wander to a schoolyard celebration in the neighborhood where you are staying. These are some of the most genuine experiences of the day, and visitors are welcome to buy waffles, cheer for the sack race winners, and chat with locals.
In smaller towns, follow the sound of drums and brass. The parade routes are posted locally in the weeks beforehand, but you can simply drift with the crowd and you will not miss it.
Costs, Bookings, and Practicalities
May 17th itself is free to enjoy. It is a national holiday, and most regular shops are closed, though convenience stores may open with limited hours. Cafes and restaurants are often open, yet they will be busy and some offer special set menus. Book lunch or dinner in advance if you want a sit down meal.
Hotels in major cities fill early for this weekend. If you are traveling specifically for May 17th, book months ahead. If you are tempted by a bunad, know that it is an investment piece with craftsmanship to match, which means a significant price and a lead time. For a visitor, a ribbon or scarf in the colors of the flag is an easy alternative.
Weather, Comfort, and Accessibility
May can deliver sunshine or a stubborn chill. Dress in layers, and bring a compact umbrella. Parades mean standing still for stretches, so pack water and a small snack for kids. If you need a quieter vantage point, look for the top of gentle slopes where you can see over the crowd without being squeezed. In Oslo, the area near the university lawns gives a good view without the tightest crush.
Wheelchair users will find curb cuts in central areas, but parade barriers can create chokepoints. Arrive early and ask volunteers for accessible viewing spots. Norwegians are generally happy to make space.
Families With Children
Children are the stars, and the day is built around them. Norwegian parents often prep a simple backpack with fruit, water, wet wipes, and a lightweight jacket. Schools sell small May 17th ribbons and paper hats, and kids love them. If your child is noise sensitive, the drums can be loud, so bring ear protection. Schoolyards after the parade are perfect for a slow lunch while little ones run off energy.
Joining Respectfully As a Foreigner
You do not need an invitation. Step into the flow, wave a flag, sing along if you know the words, and cheer every band and banner. The most Norwegian thing you can do on May 17th is to be friendly, patient, and part of the crowd. If someone steps on your foot, you both smile and say unnskyld, then carry on. Compliment a bunad and ask which region it is from, and you will likely hear a family story.
Where To Stand For Great Views
In Oslo, good spots include the slope of Karl Johans gate near the university, the edge of Slottsparken below the Royal Palace, and the side streets that feed into the main route where bands regroup and catch their breath. In Bergen, join the flow around Torgallmenningen to see the buekorps close up. In small towns, any corner near the town hall or main church is a safe bet.
A Few Local Tips From Years Of Doing This
Eat something salty before the dessert cart rolls. Have cash or a card ready for schoolyard raffles, because the prizes often come from local bakeries and are worth it. Tuck a small Norwegian dictionary or a note with the anthem lyrics in your pocket if you like to sing. Most importantly, plan less and enjoy more. The magic of May 17th is not a single spectacle. It is the sound of a brass band bouncing off old stone, the pride on a child’s face as they carry a flag, and the way a city of strangers briefly acts like a village.