Istrehågan is one of those places that quietly stops you in your tracks. Tucked between Larvik and Sandefjord in Vestfold, the site features large standing stones arranged as ship outlines and circles on a low ridge above farm fields and forest. It is an open-air archaeological site, easy to pair with a coastal day out, yet atmospheric enough to feel like a destination on its own.
If you are wondering what Istrehågan is and whether it’s worth a detour, here’s the short answer: it’s a remarkably well-preserved Iron Age burial ground with five stone settings, including two ship-shaped graves. The largest stone ship is about 25 meters long and built from 18 upright stones. It’s free to visit, open year-round, and rewarding for anyone interested in Nordic history, quiet walks, and moody photography.
Let’s take a deeper dive into Istrehågan and how to visit it well.
What Is Istrehågan?
Istrehågan is an Iron Age burial field dating roughly from the Migration Period to the early Viking Age. The most striking features are two stone ship settings where tall stones trace the hull of a vessel laid out on land, bow and stern marked by the highest monoliths. Three additional stone circles complete the field. Archaeological excavations in the 20th century confirmed the area’s use as a burial ground and linked it to a broader corridor of ancient travel that crossed this ridge.
Standing there, you’ll notice how the site commands a gentle rise. That wasn’t accidental. Prehistoric communities often chose visible places near routes of movement, so graves could be seen as you passed by. It is this combination of landscape, path, and ritual that gives Istrehågan its particular presence.
Where Is It, Exactly?
Istrehågan sits on the Sandefjord–Larvik border in Vestfold, with the stone settings themselves lying in Larvik municipality and much of the approach paths coming through Sandefjord’s Marum forest. Official listings typically give the address as Istre, 3280 Tjodalyng. For drivers, a practical target is the small signed parking by Furustadlia on the Sandefjord side. From there, a short walk leads to the stones.
Signage is improving but can still be sparse off the main roads. Study the route before you go and don’t be surprised if your last few minutes are on a gravel lane.
How To Get There
By car
From Larvik or Sandefjord the drive is simple. Use local roads toward Tjodalyng/Jåberg and follow signs for Marum/Marumskogen. Aim for the marked parking near Furustadlia or Jåberggrenda. The final approach is on rural lanes; drive slowly and be considerate of residents.
From Oslo, take the E18 south toward Larvik. Depending on traffic, the drive usually takes around 1 hour 30 minutes to 1 hour 45 minutes before the rural turnoffs.
By public transport
Take the train to Larvik or Sandefjord. From either town, local buses run toward the Tjølling/Tjodalyng area, but services can be limited and stops are not right at the stones. Use the national journey planner app (Entur) to find the best connection on the day you visit. Expect a short countryside walk from the nearest bus stop to the site.
By bike or on foot
Cyclists coming from Sandefjord can follow the signed Marumrunden loop through farmland and forest to Istrehågan and the Haugen rock carving field. Walkers will find a network of marked forest paths. If you enjoy combining culture with a nature walk, this is a particularly satisfying way to arrive.
When To Visit
Istrehågan is open year-round. Each season brings a different mood:
- Spring has bright, angled light and fewer visitors. Trails can be damp, but the stones stand crisp against the fresh grass.
- Summer offers the longest days. Visit early morning or late evening for softer light and fewer people. Bring water and mosquito repellent, and check for ticks after walking through grass.
- Autumn gives warm colors in the surrounding trees, and low sun that photographs beautifully.
- Winter can be magical after fresh snow or hoarfrost. Paths may be icy, so wear traction if needed.
If you love photography, time your arrival for the golden hour. The ship outlines feel more sculptural when the stones throw long shadows.
What You’ll See On Site
You’ll first come to the largest ship setting, a long, elegant curve with the tallest stones at the ends to mark bow and stern. Walk the perimeter slowly to feel the shape close around you. A second, smaller ship lies nearby, along with three stone circles partially tucked into the ridge.
Look for the subtle “gunwale line” effect: the stones often step down in height toward the center of the ship, echoing the sweep of a hull. It’s a small detail, but once you notice it, the entire composition clicks into focus.
There is a simple information board. No visitor center, no cafe, and no ticket booth. The minimal infrastructure is a feature, not a bug. The value here is the quiet.
Practical Tips (From Local Habits)
- Footwear: Choose sturdy shoes. The ground is uneven and can be slick after rain.
- Facilities: There are no toilets or bins at the site. Pack out all rubbish.
- Families: Kids tend to love the “stone ship” idea. If you bring children, remind them not to climb on the stones.
- Dogs: Allowed on leash. Keep them close around livestock areas and during nesting season.
- Drones: This is a burial site in a quiet rural area. If you fly, be discreet, obey Norwegian regulations, and avoid disturbing others.
- Weather: Vestfold weather turns quickly. Carry a light shell even in summer.
- Tiques (ticks): Common from spring to autumn in grass and forest. Long trousers and a quick tick-check after your walk are smart.
Respect The Site
Norway’s ancient monuments are protected by law and by a cultural pact we take seriously. At Istrehågan, fires are forbidden, camping is not allowed, and horse riding must stay on the path. Most importantly, do not move, sit on, or climb the stones. This is a cemetery, not a playground, and treating it with care ensures it will outlast us.
Accessibility
From the closest parking, the walk is short on a worn path across grass and soil. Visitors with limited mobility can often reach the edge of the field on a firm track, but the last meters are typically over turf. After wet weather it can be soft. If you need the least bumpy approach, aim for the Furustadlia side and take your time.
How Long To Spend
If you drive and park close, you can see the essentials in 30 to 45 minutes. Many people choose to linger for an hour to sit, photograph, and walk the ridge. If you’re arriving on foot or by bike through the forest, allow 2 to 3 hours for an unhurried round trip with pauses.
Pair It With Nearby Sights
- Haugen rock carvings. A short ride from Istrehågan, these petroglyphs add a Bronze Age layer to your day.
- Mølen pebble beach near Nevlunghavn. A dramatic stone shoreline and cairn field that ties geology and ancient burial customs together.
- Kaupang Viking Town outside Larvik. In summer, the small museum and re-created settlement bring early urban life to life and complement the ritual world of Istrehågan.
- Ula, Vøra, and the Vestfold coastal path. If you want sea air after the forest, these are classic local stops.
A relaxed loop could be: morning at Istrehågan, lunch in Larvik or Sandefjord, then an afternoon walk at Mølen or a swim at Ula on warm days.
Good To Know Before You Go
- Cost: Visiting Istrehågan is free.
- Opening hours: None. It’s an open cultural landscape. Daylight visits are strongly recommended.
- Parking: Limited. Please keep entrances clear and use signed spaces only. If a small lot is full, do not block farm tracks; continue to an alternative trailhead and walk in.
- Navigation: Signal can be patchy on forest lanes. Save an offline map, and search for “Istrehågan” or “Furustadlia” before you lose coverage.
- Food and water: Bring your own. The nearest shops and cafes are in Larvik and Sandefjord.
A Simple Itinerary You Can Trust
- Late morning: Drive to the Furustadlia parking and stroll up to the stones. Take a slow lap around each setting.
- Lunch: Head into Larvik for a cafe stop or picnic at the beech forest, Bøkeskogen.
- Afternoon: Continue to Mølen for coastal walking and cairn spotting, or to Kaupang for Viking history in season.
- Evening: If the sky is clear, swing back past Istrehågan for soft evening light and a final photo. You’ll likely have it almost to yourself.
Why Istrehågan Sticks With People
Plenty of places in Norway are bigger, louder, and better-known. Istrehågan is the opposite. The draw is the quiet concentration of meaning in a simple shape. A ship traced in stone, facing time. If you slow down enough to let it in, that’s more than worth the detour.
Key takeaways: free, open all year, short walk from parking, limited facilities, and a strong request to respect the stones and the place. Bring curiosity and let the site do the talking.