Hardanger is one of those places that still takes my breath away, even after a lifetime in Norway. Hotel Ullensvang sits right on the edge of Sørfjorden in the village of Lofthus, with fruit orchards climbing the slopes and a glacier gleaming across the water on clear days. If you’re dreaming of a fjord hotel that mixes classic Norwegian hospitality with modern comfort, this is the address everyone in the region knows.
Short answer: Hotel Ullensvang is a polished, historic fjord hotel with standout wellness facilities, sweeping views, and easy access to the best hikes and fruit farms in Hardanger. It’s priced like a destination resort, and if you book a fjord-facing room and make time for the bath complex, you’ll understand why many travelers plan their entire Norway route around a night or two here.
Let’s take a deeper dive into what makes Hotel Ullensvang worth your time and money, plus a few local tips to help you get the most out of your stay.
Location: Lofthus, the Heart of Hardanger
Ullensvang is in Lofthus, a tiny village laid out between apple orchards and the fjord. This setting is the reason to come. Mornings bring mirror-still water, and evenings glow pink over the mountains. The hotel is an easy base for orchard walks, hikes up the old monk steps, and the famous Queen’s Trail. On spring days you can smell apple blossom drifting across the terraces; in late summer and autumn, roadside stalls sell cherries, plums, and apples straight from the farms.
Getting here is half the joy. From Bergen, the drive takes roughly three hours depending on traffic and photo stops. You’ll cross the Hardanger Bridge, then follow the fjord on a road that begs for unhurried travel. Public transport is doable with a combination of bus and local connections, but a car lets you roam freely to waterfalls and trailheads. Parking is on site, and the arrival is seamless: you step out and the fjord is right there.
First Impressions and Atmosphere
Norwegians love a hotel that honors its history without getting stuck in it. Ullensvang does that well. The lobby blends traditional details with modern Scandinavian textures, and service tends to be warm and unpretentious. You don’t get fussed over; you get looked after. That’s how we like it here.
The common spaces are designed for lingering: window seats aimed squarely at the view, quiet corners for reading, and a bar that makes sense of the region’s cider culture. Order a local apple cider or a nonalcoholic apple juice and you’re instantly in Hardanger mode. On good-weather days, everyone migrates to the waterfront lawn. You’ll see guests kicking off hiking boots, couples sharing blankets, and families drifting between the pier and the pool.
Rooms and Suites: Prioritize the View
Rooms vary from classic to contemporary, but the smartest move is simple: book a fjord-facing room with a balcony. Watching the light shift across the water is worth it. Mountain-view rooms can be pleasant too, but if this is a once-in-a-lifetime Hardanger stop, lean into the full picture window moment.
Expect comfortable beds, practical storage, and bathrooms that are modern even in the older wings. Soundproofing is good for a heritage property. If you’re sensitive to noise, ask for a higher floor away from the elevator. Families will appreciate the larger rooms and interconnecting options; couples might look to corner rooms for extra space and a wrap of windows.
A small local tip: pack layers and a light sweater even in July. Balconies are addictive at sunset, but the fjord air turns crisp the moment the sun slides behind the ridge.
Ullensvang Bath: The Showpiece
The hotel’s wellness area is one of the best in fjord country. There’s a generous indoor pool, an outdoor infinity-style pool looking straight at the water, hot zones for cold evenings, and sauna/steam facilities that hit the sweet spot after a day on the trails. The design is clean and focused on the view rather than gimmicks, which fits the landscape-first ethos of Hardanger.
Make time for the water even if you’re not usually a “spa person.” The contrast of warm pool and glacial scenery is pure Norwegian therapy. Early mornings are quiet; late afternoons get livelier as hikers return. If you’re traveling with kids, you’ll appreciate the space and the gentle slopes into the water. If you’re on a romantic trip, slip in after dinner for a quietly cinematic end to the day.
Dining: Local Produce, Fjord Panorama
Norway’s hotel dining has improved a lot in the past decade, and Ullensvang is a solid example of why. Breakfast is generous, with the classics done right: fresh bread, cheeses, smoked fish, eggs, and proper Norwegian waffles with brunost if you want to do it like a local. The view works overtime; the first coffee overlooking the fjord might be the memory you take home.
Dinner typically leans into seasonal ingredients from Hardanger and the west coast: trout or cod, lamb in autumn, and produce from nearby farms. If you can, book a window table for the late seating to watch the evening light show. Service is attentive but relaxed; no one will rush you. The lounge is also a good spot for a lighter meal if you’ve had a big lunch on the road.
For a taste of place, try local apple cider or sparkling apple must. Hardanger is Norway’s fruit basket, and you can actually taste the fjord climate in the glass. If you prefer beer, look for regional microbrews; if you’re abstaining, the nonalcoholic apple options are excellent.
What To Do: Hikes, Orchards, and Waterfalls
You could easily spend a day without leaving the property, but the surroundings are why most guests come.
Hiking highlights:
- Dronningstien (The Queen’s Trail): A high, panoramic route above the fjord that’s become a modern classic. It needs stable weather and proper footwear; plan most of a day and arrange transport since it’s not a neat loop.
- Munketreppene (Monk Steps): Old stone steps climbing from the orchards up to the mountain farms. Shorter than the Queen’s Trail but still a heart-pumper, and a great way to touch Hardanger’s history under your feet.
- Valley walks: If the high routes are socked in with cloud, take gentler paths through the orchards and along the fjord. Blossom season in May is magic, and late summer brings that sweet, heavy scent of fruit.
Water and fjord time:
- The hotel often has easy access to the water for quick dips when you’re feeling brave. Kayaks or rowboats may be available in season. The fjord is cold year-round, but that’s half the fun.
- Waterfalls are close by in all directions. Drive the fjord and you’ll stumble on spray and rainbows; if you’re chasing big names, there are giants within a comfortable day’s loop.
Cultural notes:
- Hardanger has a tradition of folk music and crafts. If you see a local concert advertised, go. The hotel or the tourist office in Lofthus usually knows what’s on.
- Farm shops sell ciders, juices, jams, and cheeses. Bring a tote and make friends; Norwegians can be reserved at first, but we open up when we’re talking apples.
Service and Hospitality
Service at Ullensvang is typically Norwegian: friendly without being performative, solution-oriented rather than scripted. Ask for what you need and you’ll usually get it. Staff know the trails, and they’ll give honest advice if conditions are poor. In summer high season, the property hums with international guests; shoulder seasons feel more local and laid-back.
If you’re celebrating something, mention it in advance. The team is good about small touches that make a stay feel personal, especially at dinner or with room allocation.
When to Go: Seasons and Weather
Hardanger is a year-round beauty, but the experience shifts with the calendar.
- May to early June: Blossom season. The orchards explode in white and pink, and the air smells like a bakery window. Book early; this period is wildly popular for good reason.
- July and August: Peak summer, long days, warmer water, the best odds for the higher hikes. Also the busiest.
- September and October: My quiet favorite. Harvest stalls pop up, colors turn copper and gold, and the hotel settles into a slower rhythm.
- Winter: Calm and contemplative. You trade big hikes for spa time, reading by the window, and short walks when the light is soft. If you like the slower Norway, this might be your moment.
Weather is changeable even on the best days. Pack waterproof layers, trail shoes with decent grip, and clothing you can peel on and off as the temperature swings. Don’t judge the day by the morning sky; give Hardanger a few hours to surprise you.
Practicalities and Value
Hotel Ullensvang is a premium property, and prices reflect that, especially in blossom season and summer. If you’re budget-sensitive, look at shoulder dates and weekday nights. What makes it good value is how much you can do without extra logistics: swim, sit, hike, repeat. For families, the pools and lawns are natural kid magnets. For couples, the combination of silence, scenery, and a proper dinner is hard to beat.
Wi-Fi is reliable, rooms have the outlets and desk space you need if you’re working a bit, and there are usually EV charging options in the area. Breakfast is included in most rates, and I recommend adding dinner at least once to lean into the slow-evening rhythm.
Insider Tips from a Local
- Book the fjord view. It’s the difference between a nice stay and a memorable one.
- Time your bath visit. Go early morning for stillness or late evening after the day-trippers fade.
- Dinner window seat: Ask when you book. The team can’t promise, but they try.
- Cider tasting: Hardanger cider has range. Try a dry bottle with seafood and a sweeter style with dessert or cheese.
- Trail sanity check: Weather shifts fast. Check conditions with reception before committing to the Queen’s Trail.
- Market stops: Bring cashless payment, but many farm stands now take VIPPS or card. Keep a cooler bag in the car if you plan to stock up.
- Layered clothing: Even in summer, you’ll want a light hat or windproof layer on balconies after sunset.
Hotel Ullensvang works because it knows exactly where it is and lets the landscape do the heavy lifting. If your Norway route has room for a few slow days, this is where to spend them: on a balcony with a cup of coffee, at the pool with a glacier in sight, or on a trail above a fjord that looks painted. That’s Hardanger, and that’s Ullensvang.