Folgefonna is one of those places that quietly steals the show. Tucked above the blue arms of the Hardangerfjord, this ice cap feeds dramatic valley glaciers, turquoise lakes, and old farming villages that still smell faintly of wood smoke after rain. If you are curious about glacier hiking in Norway, summer skiing, or simply want an easy path to ice views without a multi-day expedition, Folgefonna delivers.
If you are in a hurry: base yourself in Odda, Jondal, or Rosendal, plan one guided glacier hike or a half-day walk to a glacier front like Bondhusbreen or Buarbreen, and give yourself at least two full days. Late June through early September is the sweet spot for hiking and viewpoints. Never step onto the glacier without a guide and check road and ferry schedules before you go.
Let’s take a deeper dive into the world of Folgefonna and how to make the most of your trip.
What and where is Folgefonna
Folgefonna is Norway’s third-largest ice cap, crowning the Folgefonna National Park in Vestland county. The ice spills into several well-known glacier tongues, especially Bondhusbreen near Sunndal, Buarbreen just outside Odda, and Juklavassbreen above Jondal. The Hardangerfjord wraps around the massif, so you get that unique contrast Norway does so well: fruit orchards and sea-level fjords beneath permanent ice.
As a Norwegian who grew up with Sunday hikes in this region, my standing tip is simple: use the fjord villages as your base and build your days around the weather. Low cloud can sock in a viewpoint in the morning, then pull back to big blue skies mid-afternoon.
Best time to visit
For most travelers, late May to late September is ideal.
- June to August: Best for guided glacier hikes, summer skiing, open mountain roads, and long daylight hours. This is peak season, so book guiding and lodging early.
- May and September: Quieter. Trails to glacier viewpoints are usually open, but higher roads can close after fresh snow.
- October to April: Deep winter conditions at elevation. Access is limited and guiding options are fewer. This season is mainly for experienced winter travelers or those coming specifically for ski training when the center is open.
Weather swings fast. Even on sunny forecasts, pack warm layers and waterproofs. You can be in a T-shirt at the fjord and in a biting wind on the ice an hour later.
How to get there and around
Nearest big city: Bergen. Driving from Bergen to the Hardanger area takes roughly 3 to 3.5 hours depending on your base. Public buses link Bergen with Odda and Norheimsund, and ferries connect fjord crossings like Tørvikbygd–Jondal. With a car, you can reach trailheads and the mountain road to the glacier plateau more easily.
Driving notes from experience:
- The mountain road up from Jondal to the glacier plateau is steep and narrow with hairpins. It usually opens late spring and is strictly seasonal. Check conditions on the day you go.
- Ferries run frequently in summer but can queue on weekends. If you have a tight schedule, travel early or late in the day.
- Parking at popular trailheads like Buarbreen and Bondhusdalen is paid. Bring a card-enabled phone for parking apps, or cashless cards.
Top things to do
Glacier viewpoints for all levels
If you want glacier scenery without stepping on the ice, choose one of these:
- Bondhusdalen to Bondhusvatnet and Bondhusbreen viewpoint: A historic path used by locals to transport ice blocks a century ago. Gentle gradient, families love it. The water is glacial green on clear days.
- Buarbreen from Odda: A more rugged walk through forest, rivers, and boulder fields to a safe viewing area near the glacier snout. Expect some roots and simple handholds. Good boots help after rain.
Guided glacier hikes
To set foot on the ice, go with certified guides. Trips range from easy blue-ice walks to longer crevassed terrain with rope travel. The most common start points are Jondal and Odda. Book ahead in high season and share your shoe size so they can prep crampons.
Summer skiing and snowboarding
When conditions allow, Fonna Glacier Ski Resort opens for summer skiing and freestyle training on the plateau above Jondal. It is a surreal experience to carve turns while fjords and islands stretch out below. Check operating dates before planning a dedicated ski day.
Kayak and fjord cruising
Hardangerfjord is gentle compared with the stormier outer coast. Guided kayak trips are available in several villages, and short fjord cruises link orchard towns with glacier views rising behind them.
Waterfalls and orchard walks
Hardanger is famous for fruit. In May you get apple blossom; late summer brings roadside stands with cherries, plums, and apple juice. Waterfalls lace every valley, with Låtefoss near Odda a popular roadside stop.
Guided glacier hikes: what to expect
On a typical blue-ice hike, your guide outfits you with crampons, harness, helmet, and ice axe. You hike from a meeting point to the glacier margin, then rope up before stepping onto the ice. Expect 3 to 6 hours total, including approach and breaks.
My personal tips after many seasons:
- Footwear: Waterproof hiking boots with firm soles. Trail runners are too soft for crampon straps and pooling meltwater.
- Clothing: Layer up. A thin wool base layer, a warm mid-layer, and a waterproof shell is the Norwegian standard.
- Sun protection: Snow reflects. Bring sunglasses and high-SPF sunscreen even if it looks cloudy.
- Hydration and snacks: There are no shops on the ice. Pack more than you think.
- Fitness: You do not need to be an athlete, but you should be comfortable with uneven ground and a full half-day outdoors.
Important: Never venture onto the glacier unguided. Crevasses and snow bridges can look harmless and are not.
Fonna Glacier Ski Resort: quick primer
When open, Fonna offers groomed pistes, a terrain park, and a café at the top station. The road is an adventure in itself. Start early, and bring warm layers even in July. Weather can shut lifts quickly. If you are combining a ski morning with a fjord afternoon, pack a full change of clothes; wet socks ruin a cider tasting in Rosendal.
Classic day hikes and viewpoints near Folgefonna
- Bondhusdalen: Start in Sunndal and follow the old tractor road to Bondhusvatnet. If you have energy, circle the lake and continue toward the moraine ridge for better glacier views.
- Buarbreen: Drive a few minutes from Odda to the parking area and follow signs. There are small bridges and fixed ropes in places. Stick to marked paths and keep kids close near the river.
- Malmangernuten above Rosendal: Not inside the ice cap, but for a fjord-to-peaks panorama with the glacier shining across the water, this is a local favorite.
Where to stay
- Odda and Tyssedal: Best if you also want to visit Trolltunga or Låtefoss. Full range from hotels to hostels and camping.
- Jondal: Ideal for the glacier road and summer skiing. Smaller selection, peaceful evenings.
- Rosendal: Charming village with the Folgefonna National Park visitor center and a historic manor. Good if you like gardens, quieter streets, and ferry connections.
- Norheimsund and Øystese: On the fjord’s northern side, convenient for travelers coming from Bergen with car-ferry links to Jondal.
If you are traveling in July or early August, book early. Glacier guides also fill up then, so align your accommodation with your guided day.
Safety and responsible travel
- Stay off the ice without a guide. This is worth repeating.
- Mind rivers and margins. Glacier fronts shift in summer, with icefall and changing river channels. Heed signs and barriers.
- Pack for four seasons. A windproof shell, hat, and gloves live in my pack year-round.
- Respect farms and orchards. Use gates and stiles, and never pick fruit without asking.
- Leave no trace. Carry out all trash, including tissue and food scraps.
What to pack
- Waterproof hiking boots
- Wool or synthetic base layers
- Warm mid-layer and waterproof jacket
- Hat, gloves, sunglasses, sunscreen
- 1 to 2 liters of water and high-energy snacks
- Power bank for your phone, plus paper map or offline maps
- For guided trips, space in your daypack for crampons and helmet provided by the guide
VIPPS and cards work nearly everywhere, but keep a card handy for parking machines and ferries.
Sample 2 to 3 day itinerary
Day 1: Arrival and fjord warm-up
Drive from Bergen to Hardanger. Stop at Steinsdalsfossen near Norheimsund, then ferry to Jondal. If the mountain road is open, drive up for a short snow play session or coffee with a view. Overnight in Jondal or Rosendal.
Day 2: Glacier day
Join a guided blue-ice hike from Jondal or Odda. Afternoon swim or paddle at lake level if weather is kind. Dinner at a local café with fjord views. Overnight in Odda or Jondal depending on your tour.
Day 3: Valley hike and waterfalls
Choose Bondhusdalen for a gentler day or Buarbreen for a more rugged approach to a glacier front. On your way back toward Bergen, detour to Låtefoss. If time allows, stop at an orchard farm shop for juice and jam.
Practical booking tips from a local
- Guiding: Reserve at least a week ahead in July. If forecasts look stormy, guides will advise on alternatives or rescheduling.
- Ferries and roads: Build buffer time around ferry crossings and mountain roads. Queues are part of summer life here.
- Food: In small villages, restaurants can fill fast. Book a table on weekend evenings, or plan simple picnic dinners with fjord views.
- Shoulder season strategy: In late May or September, be flexible. If a glacier day looks windy, swap it with a valley hike and slide your ice day to the best forecast.
Bottom line: Folgefonna is easy to love and surprisingly accessible. With a smart base, one guided day on the ice, and one valley day for classic glacier views, you will get the best of Hardanger’s contrast in a single long weekend. Bring layers, respect the conditions, and you will leave with that quiet, clean feeling that only a day around ice can give.