Trollstigen is the kind of road people dream about and then tell stories about for years. This steep, narrow section of Route 63 links the fjord village of Åndalsnes with the Valldal valley and is part of the Norwegian Scenic Routes program. With dramatic cliffs, a roaring waterfall, and tight hairpins stacked like a staircase, driving Trollstigen feels equal parts road trip and mountain theater. I grew up with this road as a summertime ritual. It still gives me that small jolt of awe every time the valley opens and the switchbacks come into view.
If you are wondering whether you can drive Trollstigen safely, the short answer is yes. In summer conditions, any confident driver in a normal car can manage Trollstigen, provided you respect the speed limits, use low gears, and keep your eyes moving. The road is engineered for tourism, there are pullouts, clear signs, and a visitor center at the top. What surprises most visitors is not the difficulty but the sensory overload: the sound of Stigfossen waterfall, the changing light on the cliffs, the way the valley floor drops away as you climb.
Curious what it actually feels like in the driver’s seat, what time of day offers the least traffic, and how to handle a rental car or camper here without stress. Let’s take a deeper dive into the world of driving Trollstigen in Norway.
Where Trollstigen Is and What Makes It Special
Trollstigen sits in western Norway, between Åndalsnes in Romsdal and the fruit-growing valley of Valldal. It is part of Route 63, the same scenic road that continues toward Geiranger. The star features are the stacked hairpin bends, the tall rock faces that hem you in, and Stigfossen, the waterfall you cross near the top on a stone bridge. You also have panoramic viewpoints at the summit with walkways that lead to glass-edged platforms. Even on busy days, you can usually find a vantage point where the wind and the water drown out the crowd.
Trollstigen is a summer mountain road with a short, intense season. There is no winter service at the high pass, so snowfall closes it for months. It typically opens in late May or early June and closes sometime in October, with the exact dates shifting based on weather. If you are planning a spring or late autumn trip, always allow a plan B. In summer, the road is dry most of the time, yet mountain showers and fog can arrive quickly. That mood shift, from blue sky to mist and back again, is part of the character here.
What The Drive Actually Feels Like
Starting from the Åndalsnes side, you first run through a broad valley, then the mountain wall lifts up ahead and the ribbon of road appears, carving a zigzag to the top. The gradient kicks in, the bends tighten, and you settle into a rhythm: brake gently before each hairpin, choose a low gear that keeps the engine comfortable, steer with intention through the corner, then look far ahead to the next one. Use engine braking rather than riding the pedal on the descent, both for safety and to avoid hot brakes.
The corners are sharp enough that you will be turning the wheel more than you do at home, but they are predictable. Visibility is better on some bends than others, which is why you keep your speed modest. On the ascent you feel the rock close on your right and the drop open on your left, then you switch sides. It is not a white-knuckle road if you drive within the conditions. It is dramatic, yes, but the excitement comes from the scenery rather than any technical driving heroics.
Traffic, Etiquette, and Passing Places
Trollstigen is popular, which means you share it with coaches, campervans, motorcycles, and cyclists. The road has pullouts that let vehicles pass one another. Keep your pace steady and patient. If a bus needs the full arc of a corner, give it room and let it take priority. On narrow mountain roads here, uphill traffic is generally given the courtesy of right of way because it is harder to get going again once stopped. Use common sense, make eye contact when possible, and never force a situation.
Overtaking is not the sport here. If someone behind you clearly wants to go faster, pull into a safe lay-by and let them pass. You save your own nerves and theirs, and you have more time to look at the scenery without feeling hurried.
Best Time Of Day To Drive Trollstigen
If you want a calmer run, go early or go late. I like wheels rolling by 7 to 8 in the morning, or after dinner in midsummer when the light is long. Between roughly 10 and 16, queueing behind buses is common in July and early August. Weekdays feel a little quieter than weekends. June and September are wonderful months, with full greenery but fewer crowds. On a wet day, traffic thins and the waterfalls put on a show, though you will want slow, careful driving and a warm layer at the top.
Is Trollstigen Scary
This is the question I get most. For most drivers, Trollstigen is thrilling rather than frightening. The road is paved, signed, and maintained to a high standard in summer. Edge barriers are present where you might worry about exposure. If you dislike heights, sit on the inside seat when possible, keep your eyes on the lane, and avoid fixating on the drop. Focus on the bend ahead and your mirrors. The fear tends to fade after the first three corners. What remains is pure wonder.
Tips For Campervans And Larger Vehicles
Motorhomes can and do drive Trollstigen every day in season. The key is preparation. Choose a gear that prevents constant shifting. Keep your momentum up on the climbs without rushing. On the descent, pick a low gear early so your brakes are more of a backup than the main tool. Use lay-bys generously if a line forms behind you. If your rig is unusually long or you are towing a caravan, consider the Valldal to Geiranger section instead on a crowded day, or park at the visitor center and experience Trollstigen as a passenger in a smaller car from your group.
Weather And Road Conditions You Should Expect
Mountain weather in Norway is changeable. Sun can switch to drizzle, then to low cloud, then back to bright again. Fog is common, especially in cooler mornings. In fog you simply reduce speed and build in more margin before each bend. After rain, smooth patches can feel slick. Temperatures at the top are always cooler than at sea level, so have a jacket even in July. If snow or ice is in the forecast around the opening or closing weeks, officials will shut the road. Respect closures, they are for real conditions, not bureaucracy.
How Long The Drive Takes
From the foot of the climb to the top, you are looking at a short segment in pure distance, yet it is not a race. Plan at least 30 to 45 minutes for the climb or descent itself if traffic is light, and add time for photos and the visitor center. If you are coming from Åndalsnes with a stop at the top and then onward toward Valldal, allow a couple of unrushed hours. The road rewards patience. You are here to soak it in.
Where To Park And What To See At The Top
There is a large parking area at Trollstigen’s summit with a modern visitor center that blends into the rock and water. You can grab a coffee and a cinnamon bun, use the restrooms, then walk out on the steel-and-glass platforms that jut over the cliffs. These walkways are safe, and the views down over the hairpins and Stigfossen are the postcards you have seen online. Give yourself time to wander the short paths. If the wind kicks up, hold onto your hat.
Photography And Viewpoints Without Stress
The best photos of the road itself are from the top platforms and from a few signed lay-bys partway up. When you are driving, keep the camera put away. If you have a passenger, assign them as photographer and let them shoot between corners. The light is lovely in the early morning when the first sun hits the valley wall. After rain, the rock darkens and the waterfall glows white, which makes for strong contrast. On misty days you can get ethereal frames of the road disappearing and reappearing.
Practicalities: Fuel, Food, And Facilities
Fuel up before you leave Åndalsnes or Valldal. There are no pumps at the top. Snacks, coffee, and simple meals are available at the visitor center during the season. Restrooms are there as well. There is no road toll for Trollstigen, and standard Norwegian speed limits apply as signed. Mobile coverage can be spotty on the climb, then returns at the summit and on the far side.
Combining Trollstigen With Other Sights
You can fold Trollstigen into a larger loop. Many travelers drive Åndalsnes up Trollstigen, continue to Valldal for a fruit-stand stop in summer, then push on to Geiranger along Route 63 for another classic viewpoint day. Others pair it with the Rauma Railway or a hike in Romsdalen. If you like coastal engineering as much as mountain passes, the Atlantic Road is a reasonable day trip from Åndalsnes on a different day, with a different kind of drama.
What To Do If You Do Not Want To Drive It Yourself
Plenty of people prefer to ride rather than drive, which is sensible if mountain roads make you tense. Bus tours run in season from Åndalsnes and Geiranger regions. You can also hire a local driver or taxi for the climb and descent. Another nice compromise is to drive one direction yourself, then switch seats with a more confident driver in your group for the return.
A Local’s Little Tricks For A Smooth Day
I tend to aim for an early pass with a thermos and a simple breakfast at the top. If the weather is mixed, I wait 15 minutes at the summit because cloud often lifts just enough for a clear window. I always walk all the way to the far viewpoint, the one that faces straight down the stack of hairpins. It takes a few extra minutes and is worth every step. If you are traveling with kids, pack a warm layer and a small treat for the top so the viewpoint stop is a memory, not a negotiation.
Safety Reminders That Really Matter
Keep your lights on, as required in Norway. Choose a gear that uses the engine to control speed on the descent. Look where you want the car to go, not at the drop. Signal early, steer smoothly, and be generous with passing places. If conditions feel outside your comfort zone, park at the summit and wait. Mountain roads reward patience and presence. Trollstigen is not about conquering anything, it is about being present for a few focused minutes inside a landscape that was here long before you and will be here long after.
If you give Trollstigen the time it asks for, it will give you one of your most vivid days in Norway. You will remember the sound of the water, the feeling of the steering wheel through each tight corner, and that first breath at the top when the whole valley opens beneath you.