Trollstigen is one of those places that looks unreal until you are standing in the wind at the viewpoint, listening to the roar of Stigfossen and watching tiny cars thread their way up 11 tight hairpin turns. This iconic stretch of County Road 63 is part of the Geiranger–Trollstigen National Tourist Route and connects the deep valleys of Romsdal and Valldal with a climb that feels equal parts engineering and drama. I grew up with summer trips through Trollstigen, and I still get a little jolt in my stomach every time the road tips upward and the waterfall spray hits the windshield.
If you are wondering whether Trollstigen is worth it: yes, absolutely. The road is typically open from late spring to early autumn, the drive is straightforward if you take it slowly, and the viewpoints at the top are among the best in Norway. The key is timing your visit, driving with patience, and building in time to walk the viewpoint paths.
Let’s take a deeper dive into the world of Trollstigen and set you up for an unforgettable day in the mountains.
Where Is Trollstigen and What Makes It Special
Trollstigen sits in Møre og Romsdal county, about 30 to 40 minutes from the town of Åndalsnes in Romsdalen. The road climbs a steep mountainside cut by Stigfossen waterfall, twisting through 11 hairpin bends to a high plateau with expansive views of peaks like Bispen, Kongen, and Dronninga. The gradient is steep, the road is narrow by international standards, and the scenery is classic western Norway: dark rock, bright water, and patches of summer snow that can linger well into July.
The dramatic setting is enhanced by the architecture of the Trollstigen plateau. Concrete-and-steel walkways lead to cantilevered viewpoints that seem to float over the drop. It feels wild, but there are good railings and a sturdy path, so almost everyone can enjoy the vistas.
When Is Trollstigen Open
Trollstigen is a seasonal mountain road. Expect the opening sometime between late May and mid June, depending on snow conditions, and closure again in October or early November when winter returns. Heavy snow or late spring can push the opening back. In early season you may still see snow walls along the upper stretches, which makes for incredible photos and a very Norwegian kind of excitement.
My rule of thumb:
- June brings the snow walls and strong waterfall flow.
- July and August offer the most stable weather but also the biggest crowds.
- September has crisp air, autumn colors, and fewer buses, but days are shorter and conditions can shift quickly.
If the road is closed, the practical detour between Åndalsnes and Valldal/Geiranger is via the E136 and other lower passes. It takes longer, but the Romsdalen valley is beautiful in any weather.
How to Get to Trollstigen
From Åndalsnes: Drive south on RV 63 toward Trollstigen. The approach is straightforward and scenic. I like to fuel up and grab snacks in Åndalsnes first because you will not find big services on the mountain.
From Valldal or Geiranger: Drive north on RV 63. Many travelers combine Trollstigen with the Eagle Road and a fjord cruise in Geiranger on the same day. It is doable if you start early and keep an eye on ferry times.
Public transport: In the main season there is usually a seasonal bus running between Åndalsnes and Valldal with stops at Trollstigen. Schedules change year to year, so check them close to your travel date and plan to be flexible.
Driving Trollstigen Safely
Trollstigen rewards unhurried drivers. The surface is sealed and well maintained, but lanes are narrow and the hairpins are tight. The gradient is strong, so use low gear on both ascent and descent to protect your brakes. There are meeting points and small pull-outs. If you are holding up a queue, be a good neighbor and let others pass when safe.
A few practical tips from many trips:
- Avoid the peak window from about 10 to 16 when tour buses are most frequent in high season. Early morning and late afternoon are calmer and the light is better for photos.
- If you meet a bus on a hairpin, the smaller vehicle gives way. Keep calm, follow the signals from the bus driver, and use the pull-outs.
- Watch for sheep. They roam and do not care about your plans.
- In wet weather, rocks and spray from Stigfossen can make corners slick. Take it gently.
Motorhomes and campervans can do Trollstigen, but you need to be comfortable with tight turns and mindful of your overhang. If you are new to big vehicles, go early or late when traffic is light.
Parking, Visitor Center, and Facilities
At the top of the climb you reach the Trollstigen plateau, a large parking area with a modern visitor center, café, restrooms, and souvenir shop. Even on busy days I usually find a spot if I arrive before mid morning or after 16. Facilities are seasonal, opening and closing with the road.
The viewpoint paths leave right from the parking. Surfaces are a mix of concrete and stone. Some sections are wheelchair and stroller friendly, especially the first viewpoint. The far platforms involve a bit more uphill and uneven footing but are still accessible for most visitors with normal fitness.
Viewpoints and Photo Stops
Do not rush this part. From the parking, follow the clearly signed walkway toward the main platforms:
- The first terrace gives you a wide view over the upper valley with peaks rising all around.
- Continue to the cantilevered platforms for the famous look straight down the road and onto Stigfossen as it crashes across the slope. On misty days you may get a rainbow in the spray.
- I like to walk a little past the official platforms and find a quiet rock to sit on. Give yourself ten minutes without a camera. The scale of it really lands when you stop moving.
On the way up or down, there are a couple of safe pull-outs where you can shoot the waterfall and the zigzag road. If a pull-out is full, do not improvise. Keep going and turn around at the next safe point.
Short Hikes Near Trollstigen
If you have an extra hour or two, the plateau is a perfect base for short alpine walks:
- Bispevatnet: A steady, family-friendly path to a clear mountain lake at the foot of Bispen. Plan about 1 to 2 hours round trip. In early summer you may hit snow patches. The reflection shots on a calm day are worth the extra breath.
- Kløvstien (the old trail): This historic path climbs the mountainside near the modern road. It is steep and rocky in places and not ideal in rain, but the sense of history is strong. Allow half a day and proper hiking shoes.
- If the weather is socked in at the top, consider heading back to Åndalsnes for Rampestreken, a viewpoint platform above town reached by a steep forest trail. It sits lower and often escapes the worst of the fog.
Always check the forecast and bring layers, even in July. Weather can switch from T-shirt to hat and gloves in an hour.
Cycling Trollstigen
Cycling Trollstigen is a bucket list climb for many riders. The gradient is steady, the scenery is pure fuel, and the descent is a joy if you are confident. A few local pointers:
- Start early to avoid tour traffic.
- Lights and a loud bell help in the spray and tunnels.
- The road is open to bikes only when it is open to cars. In shoulder season, verify status before committing.
- Descend with respect for your rims and your neighbors. Wet brake tracks and sharp corners can surprise even strong riders.
Weather, Clothing, and Safety
In the mountains, the forecast is a suggestion. Pack a windproof jacket, warm midlayer, and sturdy shoes at minimum. On sunny days I still bring a hat because the plateau is fully exposed. The waterfall throws fine mist across the path and platforms, so keep a cloth handy for your camera or phone lens.
If fog rolls in and visibility drops, wait fifteen minutes. Conditions often shift. If it stays thick, do not force it. I have had magical experiences watching clouds lift to reveal the road like a stage curtain, and I have also turned back without a view. Both are part of mountain travel.
Food, Fuel, and EV Charging
The café at the plateau does simple, decent food and hot drinks in season. Otherwise, bring a picnic and enjoy it on the rocks. I often stop in Valldal for strawberries in July and August or in Åndalsnes for a proper meal before or after the drive.
For EVs, plan your charging in Åndalsnes or Valldal. Chargers on the plateau are limited or non-existent some years, and traffic can be heavy. Top up before you climb so you can linger without range anxiety.
Responsible Visiting
You are in a sensitive alpine area. Stick to marked paths, pack out all litter, and keep drones grounded around crowds and the platforms. Norway’s right to roam lets you explore, but with it comes the responsibility to protect fragile plants and give others a peaceful experience. Overnighting in the main plateau parking is often restricted. Use established campsites in Åndalsnes or Valldal if you want to stay close.
Photography Tips
Morning light grazes the face of the road from the east and brings out texture in the rock. Late afternoon and evening soften the contrast and warm the tones. After rain, Stigfossen is at full voice, and the spray can create rainbows. If you shoot from the platforms, step aside between photos so everyone gets a turn at the rail. A microfiber cloth and a simple lens hood will save your shots when the wind shifts.
Pair Trollstigen With Nearby Highlights
You can shape a great day or two around Trollstigen:
- Åndalsnes and Romsdalen: Stroll the riverfront, visit the mountaineering museum, and hike to Rampestreken. The vertical Trollveggen cliff sits nearby and is impressive from the roadside viewpoint.
- Valldal: Gentle valley landscapes and farm stands. If you are traveling with kids, look for small river beaches on hot days.
- Geiranger: If time allows, continue to Geiranger for the fjord views, the Eagle Road switchbacks, and a short fjord cruise. Start early if you want to fit it all in without rushing.
Quick Answers to Common Questions
Is Trollstigen scary to drive? It looks dramatic, but if you are comfortable with mountain roads and take it slowly, it is manageable. Patience and low gear are your friends.
How long should I plan at the top? One to two hours lets you walk all the platforms, linger for photos, and grab a coffee. Add more if you plan a short hike like Bispevatnet.
Can I visit in winter? No. The road is closed for safety outside the summer season. You can still enjoy Romsdalen and lower valleys, which are beautiful year-round.
What time of day is best? Early morning or late afternoon for fewer crowds and better light. On hot days, the upper plateau is cooler than the valleys, which is a bonus.
Is there wildlife? Sheep are common. Occasionally you might see ptarmigan or hear golden plover on the plateau. Give animals space and keep food packed away.
Trollstigen is one of those routes that turns a travel day into a memory. Go slow. Look up from the camera. Let the place work on you. And when you roll back into the valley, treat yourself to a strawberry soft serve in Valldal or a cinnamon bun in Åndalsnes. You earned it.