December in Norway is the season of candlelight in windows, snowy streets in many towns, and the quiet magic of polar night in the north. It is also when Norwegians lean into togetherness, winter sports, and a calendar full of traditions. If you are considering a December trip, you will find fewer daylight hours but plenty of atmosphere, from Christmas markets to northern lights safaris.
If you want a quick answer: December is a wonderful month if you are seeking winter scenery, festive vibes, and the chance to see the aurora. Days are short across the country and the farther north you go, the darker it gets, which means you need to plan your sightseeing carefully. In return, you get cozy city evenings, good skiing conditions in many areas, and strong odds for northern lights above the Arctic Circle.
Let’s take a deeper dive into the world of visiting Norway in December.
December Weather and Daylight
December is full winter across Norway, but conditions vary by region. In Oslo and the inland valleys of Eastern Norway, temperatures often sit below freezing. Snow cover is common in the hills around the capital, and ski resorts in places like Trysil, Hemsedal, and Hafjell usually have lifts running. On the coast in Western Norway, including Bergen and Ålesund, the weather is milder and wetter. Expect rain, slush, and occasional snow rather than deep powder in the cities. Northern Norway, from Bodø to Tromsø and up into Finnmark, tends to be reliably snowy and colder.
Daylight is as important as temperature for your planning. In Oslo you can expect roughly 5 to 6 hours of proper daylight in mid-December. Bergen is similar. In Tromsø and other locations above the Arctic Circle, the mørketid, or polar night, is in effect. The sun does not rise, but there is a daily blue twilight that can be surprisingly beautiful for photography. I grew up in the south, but I still remember my first December visit to Tromsø. At noon the mountains wore a ring of soft indigo light and the city felt both calm and alive. It is a different kind of day, and it changes how you pace your activities.
A practical note: ice forms quickly when temperatures hover around freezing. Even in cities, bring traction for your shoes or buy small slip-on spikes in supermarkets and sports shops. Your ankles will thank you.
Christmas Season Traditions You Will Notice
December is a month of rituals here. Offices and friend groups gather for julebord, an annual Christmas dinner that fills restaurants on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. You might see people in bunad at formal gatherings, or just cheerful groups crowding the tram.
Shops and streets are decorated early, and you will find Christmas markets in Oslo, Bergen, Trondheim, and many smaller towns. These are warm places to sample gløgg mulled wine, nibble pepperkaker ginger cookies, and pick up wool mittens or woodcraft. If you are in Norway on 13 December, look for St. Lucia processions in schools and churches, with children in white gowns carrying candles and serving lussekatter saffron buns.
The key dates for closures and quiet days are December 24, 25, and 26. Most Norwegians celebrate on Christmas Eve, so shops close early on the 24th. Christmas Day and Boxing Day are public holidays with limited opening hours. There is a special stillness to romjul, the period from 27 to 30 December. Many people take time off, cities are quieter in the daytime, and ski hills are lively.
Food is central to the season. If you want a traditional taste, look for ribbe roast pork belly in Eastern Norway, pinnekjøtt cured lamb ribs in the west, and lutefisk for the adventurous. Bakeries sell krumkake, smultringer, and other Christmas cookies. Ask for julebrus, the seasonal soda kids grow up with. For beer lovers, winter brings a range of juleøl brews. If you are driving, be aware of zero tolerance for drink driving here. Treat that craft beer as a reward after you are done with the car for the day.
Northern Lights in December
December is prime aurora season, especially in Tromsø, Alta, Kirkenes, and the Lofoten Islands. With long dark nights and, in the far north, no direct sunrise, you have a wide nightly window to watch the sky. The essential ingredients are clear skies and patience. I always suggest booking an aurora chase tour if you have only a few nights. Guides check cloud maps and will drive you to clearer pockets, sometimes inland where the weather breaks.
A few tips that help:
- Pick at least three nights in the north to better your odds. Weather is the wild card.
- Bring a headlamp with a red light option to protect night vision.
- Use manual camera settings or a smartphone night mode, and a small tripod. Cold drains batteries quickly, so keep spares inside your jacket.
- The moon is not a dealbreaker. A brighter moon can reveal landscape detail and produce pleasing photos.
If you prefer independent travel, base yourself somewhere with minimal light pollution and a clear view north. On calm nights the aurora can appear right over town, which never gets old.
Skiing, Snow, and Winter Activities
By December, alpine resorts are typically open with a good base on groomed runs, thanks to both natural snow and snowmaking. Hemsedal and Trysil are the two most popular large resorts for visitors, while Myrkdalen near Voss and Hafjell/Kvitfjell in Gudbrandsdalen are favorites among families and strong intermediates. Book accommodation early for the period around Christmas and New Year, as Norwegians flock to cabins then.
For cross-country skiers, December can be hit or miss in lowland areas, but mountain plateaus often deliver. Sjusjøen near Lillehammer and Beitostølen in Valdres usually prepare trails early, and rental shops will kit you out if you are trying Nordic for the first time.
In the north, you can add dog sledding, snowmobiling on designated trails in Finnmark, reindeer sledding and Sami cultural visits. These are well run and usually include thermal suits, boots, and a hot drink around a fire. Booking ahead is wise, particularly in the week after Christmas.
City Breaks With a Winter Glow
December turns our cities inward. Oslo lights up Karl Johans gate, neighborhoods string stars across windows, and cafes serve cinnamon buns with blankets draped over chairs. The Flåm Railway is a striking winter ride if you are combining Oslo and Bergen, and the Bergen funicular still runs in most conditions for nighttime views over the harbor. In Trondheim, the cathedral has beautiful seasonal concerts. If you enjoy architecture and design, indoor attractions such as the MUNCH museum and the National Museum in Oslo are ideal for short daylight days.
A favorite small-town December escape is Røros, the UNESCO-listed mining town near the Swedish border. When the snow comes, the wooden houses and narrow streets look like a Christmas card. The town hosts a well-known Christmas market earlier in the month and has excellent local food.
Packing Smart for December
The trick is to layer. Start with merino wool or synthetic base layers, add a fleece or wool sweater, and top with a windproof and waterproof shell. In colder inland and northern regions, a down jacket is welcome. Footwear matters. Bring insulated, waterproof boots with a grippy sole. Pack a warm hat that covers your ears, lined gloves or mittens, a buff or scarf, and shoe microspikes you can slip on for icy sidewalks.
Because daylight is short, a headlamp is surprisingly useful, especially if you are walking outside cities, catching buses in small villages, or photographing at night. Sunglasses are useful too. Low winter sun on snow can be intense, and on the coast there can be glare after rain.
Getting Around and Winter Driving
Trains and long-distance buses run throughout December, but the holiday period comes with special timetables. If you are traveling on December 24 or 31, expect earlier last departures on many routes. Purchase tickets in advance when possible and check schedules a day or two before you travel.
If you are renting a car, winter tires are mandatory and rental fleets will have them fitted. Norway uses studded or friction tires depending on region. Driving in winter is safe if you are comfortable with snow and ice, but it rewards a calm style: longer stopping distances, gentle acceleration, and leaving plenty of space. Mountain passes may close temporarily due to weather or require convoy driving behind a snowplow. Fuel up before long stretches and carry warm clothing, water, and a phone power bank. If you are not confident on snow, lean on trains and coaches. They are reliable and scenic.
Crowds and Costs
December is a tale of two periods. Early December is relatively calm, with better hotel rates in cities. The week of Christmas and New Year becomes a mini high season in certain places. Urban hotels can still be reasonable since many Norwegians go to family or cabins, but ski areas and northern lights hubs fill up. Book accommodation and key activities as soon as your dates are set, especially for the period 26 December to 1 January.
Shops offer Christmas sales between the holidays, but remember that Sundays are usually closed outside of the immediate run-up to Christmas. Some larger supermarkets open select Sundays in December, then return to normal hours after the holiday.
Suggested Itineraries for a December Trip
If you have 3 to 5 days, consider a city plus winter day trips. For example, base in Oslo. Spend a day exploring museums and the harbor sauna culture, then take a train to Lillehammer for skiing or to Hadeland Glassverk for a cozy craft and lights atmosphere. Alternatively, base in Tromsø for aurora, dog sledding, and Arctic cuisine.
With 7 to 10 days, link cities and mountains. Travel Oslo to Flåm by train, continue to Bergen, and fly north to Tromsø for three nights of aurora chasing. If skiing is the priority, split a week between Oslo and Hemsedal or Trysil. Families do well with apartments near lifts and evening swims at hotel pools.
Travelers who love maritime journeys can ride the coastal ferry between Bergen and Kirkenes. In December the ship moves through hard winter light, and there is a real chance of seeing the northern lights from deck.
How December Feels From the Inside
Norwegians like to lean into winter. We light candles at breakfast, keep wool blankets within reach, and plan our days around a few well chosen activities rather than packing in ten sights. December invites that rhythm. Wake to a slow sunrise in the south or blue twilight in the north, do one or two meaningful things, then let the evening stretch. It is a month that rewards presence. If you embrace the short days and the cold as part of the experience, you will find a Norway that is both gentle and quietly alive.
Bottom line: December in Norway favors travelers who enjoy winter, culture, and a slower daily pace. With smart packing, realistic daylight planning, and a few bookings in advance, you will find the season generous, festive, and full of small moments you will remember.